This rustic chic, industrial looking chandelier light fixture was the perfect addition to our dining room. Using a pipe as the down rod and a beautiful thick length of cedar beam really adds to the industrial look we wanted. The design is simple but unique.
One of the keys to making this piece look very sleek is using two construction plates on top to help hold the wires down into a wire recess in the wood.
6”x6” 8ft Long Cedar Beam
60 grit sandpaper
150 grit sandpaper
3” pipe flange – black iron
¾” 2ft long black pipe
2 flat metal 2”x4” construction straps
6 bronze lamp bases without a switch
12 plastic wire strain reliefs
50ft cloth covered 18/2 lamp wire
~12 ft black stranded 16ga wire
12 ft white stranded 16ga wire
12 ft grounding cord (We used 12 more feet of the white wire just marked for ground)
Brass constructions screws, assorted lengths
Minwax wood conditioner (primer for stain)
Minwax wood stain in Red Oak
6 60 Watt Incandescent Edison style bulbs
Step 1: Cut wood beam. Decide the length of wood beam for your project. We chose 48”.
Step 2: Prep wood beam by sanding. We started with 60 grit sandpaper and a sanding block. Sand the beam until smooth, rounding off the corners and edges. This will give the beam a more distressed look. Take as much wood material off the beam according to your preference. Finish sanding with 150 grit sandpaper smoothing out any rough areas left by the 60 grit sandpaper.
Step 3: Create a wiring recess. Route a ¾” wide and 1” deep channel, approximately 2 feet long, in the center of the beam on the side you want to be the “top”. Adjust the length of this channel based on your own beam’s length.
Step 4: Prepare the beam for stain. Blow off any dust. Wipe the beam with a clean, dry rag. Apply wood conditioner according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 5: Stain the beam. Apply your choice of wood stain according to manufacturer’s instructions. Let dry.
Step 6: Mark and predrill holes for metal parts. Place the flange on the “top” side of the beam centered on the wiring channel created in step 3. Mark the 4 holes in the flange and drill small pilot holes (use a drill bit smaller than the size of the screws you plan to use to attach the flange to the beam. The construction plates have multiple holes in them. We used 3 holes on the outside row on either side of the plate. We placed one plate on each side of the flange and centered them between the edge of the flange and the remaining length of the wiring channel. Hold the plate in place and predrill 6 pilot holes that will be used to attach the plate to the beam. Repeat with the other construction plate. Do not attach the plates yet!
Step 7: Screw the 2 ft black pipe into the flange.
Step 8: Run the stranded wire (black, white and grounding wires) through the black pipe and the flange.
Step 9: Attach the flange to the wood beam using the brass constructions screws. We used four #10 3” brass construction screws.
Step 10: Enlarge 3 holes in the center row of each construction plate to slightly smaller than the widest part of the wire strain reliefs.
Step 11: Place the top threaded portion of the strain relief in one of the large holes you created in the construction plate so that it is coming out the top side of the plate. Feed the cloth covered lamp wire through the wire strain relief and the enlarged hole in the construction plate. Run the wire through the strain relief nut and screw to the strain relief. This will tighten down on the wire and construction plate. Repeat until you have 3 lamp wires through each construction plate. Approximately 6” of wire should be under the plate and the remaining length should be coming out the top of the plate.
Step 12: Strip the cloth off the short lengths of lamp wire that will be resting in the recess. Strip approximately ½” of the plastic sheath off of the lamp wire to expose the bare copper strands. Connect the lamp wire to the stranded wires, ensuring that black wires go together and white wires go together respectively. Use wire nuts to make the connections.
Step 13: Push the wires into the recess of the beam that you created in step 3. Screw the construction plates into the wood beam over the recess. This will help to hold the wires into place and keeps the wood beam looking sleek and neat on top. The wire strain reliefs will reduce the possibility of the wires being pulled out.
Step 14: Feed the other end of the cloth covered lamp wire through the additional strain reliefs. Attach lamp bases to each cloth covered lamp wire. Strip the cloth off the short lengths of lamp wire that will be resting inside the lamp base. Strip approximately ½” of the plastic sheath off of the lamp wire to expose the bare copper strands. Connect the lamp wire to the screw posts of the lamp bases, ensuring that black wires go to the brass screw posts and white wires go to the silver screw posts respectively. Once wired, assemble the lamp bases according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Slide the strain relief to the lamp base and screw the relief into the top of the lamp base. Tighten the strain relief nut to secure the lamp wire to the lamp base.
Step 15: Wrap the cords around the beam. We made sure out cords were cut to different lengths so the bulbs would not all hang at the same height.
Step 16: Install your new chandelier light fixture. If you are not at all familiar with working with installing standard light fixtures, you may want to use a licensed electrician to install the light fixture. After installing, screw in the Edison bulbs.